I’ve walked by this museum building in Rome, between Campo Fiore and Piazza Navona, a hundred times but only the other day did I realize it was the site of the mammoth “Si Si Si” billboard, showing Mussolini with a “Klingon” head. It was a former Fascist party headquarters. There is something decidedly eerie about walking in the footsteps of history. Of course, Rome today is an overlay on the past and ghosts abound. But there are so many remnants of Mussolini’s brief but horrendous empire still visible, that to find one so prominent entirely gone, is even more oppressive than if the relic were there.