Rome

Roma Ieri ed Oggi (Yesterday and Today)

I’ve walked by this museum building in Rome, between Campo Fiore and Piazza Navona, a hundred times but only the other day did I realize it was the site of the mammoth “Si Si Si” billboard, showing Mussolini with a “Klingon” head. It was a former Fascist party headquarters. There is something decidedly eerie...

Old Symbols for Italy's New Ultra-Right Party

Forza Nuova (New Force) is the latest fascist wannabe on Italy’s right wing. And although relatively new to the scene, its poster (below) borrows vintage imagery from a certain long-defeated German nationalist party. The FN’s logo, while looking a little Barbara Kruger, uses that same German nationalist party’s favorite colors. Forza Nuova belongs to...

The Workshop of Typographic Memories

Although I associate it with writers, once among the world’s most brilliant, who drank themselves into self-parody and premature death, Via Margutta is my favorite street in Rome. Whenever I’m lucky enough to visit, I make a point of looking up at the balcony of Number 30, where—if what Truman Capote wrote in his...